Although Cold Saws and Chop Saws have more similarities than differences, it’s the differences that count. Many have confused the two and some consider them the same thing. Why take the time to explain the difference? We want to help educate the metal working community and equip them to make the best decision. Whether you’re working in your garage at home or a full time fabricator, which is the right saw for you: A cold saw or a chop saw? Let’s take a look at a side by side comparison on a 14 inch blade version.
Mitering Head vs Mitering Vise
A summarizing statement could be: “Cold Saws are best for industrial use whereas Chop Saws are best for a home shop”. The price would support that statement, however there are smaller bench top Cold Saws for around a thousand dollars. Some fabricators may find bench top cold saws very fitting for a home shop, others may find them a bit too much. A common oversight when purchasing these types of saws is how miter cuts are done, and whether that makes a difference. Cold Saws have a mitering head. Your material can remain stationary and in line with material rests while clamped in the vise. Chop Saws have a mitering vise. This means the opposite end of a long piece of material will swing way out on a 45 degree cut.
Unlike an abrasive saw, both Cold Saws and TCT chop saws use a toothed blade. This blade design transfers the heat generated by cutting into the chips cut by the blade. This enables the blade and cut material to remain cool, resulting in longer blade life and immediate handling of cut parts.
In conclusion, a Cold Saw will provide the lowest cost per cut and should be considered the best sawing method in a high production environment, but those wanting to keep a low upfront cost and intend to use the saw less frequently will find a Chop Saw to be a great and effective alternative.
So you’re on your 20th something notch of your latest tubing project and the 3rd hole saw in a row binds up, twists your arms like a pretzel, and distorts to the point you can measure the cutter’s run out with a yard stick. Hole Saws are for the birds, right? They’ll never work! Well, maybe there are a few things we can take a look at to get a little better life out of those inexpensive cutters and save your wrists from drill-induced torture.
First thing – let’s check out the brains of this operation – yes, you the operator! I’ve lost more hole saws than I care to admit by getting in a hurry or not paying close enough attention to what I’m doing. The number one killer of hole saws in my shop has been not removing the little slug that breaks off on the first half of the notch. When you pass through the first side of the tube, a little hole saw-slaying slug will break off, often inside the cutter itself. STOP! Back the hole saw up and take that piece out of the hole saw before continuing. If you don’t, more often than not, it will poke its devilish little head out of one of the vent holes in the side of the cutter and wedge itself against the tube. Game over for the saw and the use of your right hand for awhile.
Next up is drill choice and cutting speed. We don’t need anything real special to get good life out of a hole saw. A quality 1/2 inch corded drill does the job well. Preferably something on the slower end speed wise with good torque. I personally use a Milwaukee 0300-20 drill with a max speed of 850 RPM, and I don’t think I’d want anything slower, but not much faster either. When I’ve tried to run the drill at half speed or less the cutter tends to catch and bind more often and can cause it to chip off teeth. Start relatively slow, and ease the cutter into the tube, then when the teeth are engaged into the material, you can open up the drill and let the cutter do the work.
The next item on our checklist to notching nirvana is the depth of the cut. Don’t plunge the hole saw into the tube 6 inches from the end and use the notcher to cut your tube to length! I’ve done it, it’s dumb, and you’ll wear out a hole saw faster than you can imagine. A good notch depth should just barely leave the long edges of the “fish mouth” shape untouched by the hole saw. Any deeper and you’re engaging too many teeth into the material, and building too much heat, which will wear out the cutter faster than normal. If you’re notching to the proper depth, that little slug we talked about earlier will break off inside the hole saw. Don’t forget to stop and get him out! Beware at this point as you break through the first half of the tube that you are easing up on the pressure so as not to ram the hole saw into the opposite wall. This is sure to ovalize your hole saw which will also end it’s life prematurely.
Finally, if you’re heeding at least some of the wisdom from above, you should be making some good notches, and getting your money’s worth out of these $12-$15 hardware store heroes. The last items to take a look at are the hole saw itself and lubricant.
No matter what, every once in a while the cutter is going to bind up, the drill will stall, or something else will happen that puts a huge load on these thin steel constructed cutters. Some hole saws are constructed with a thin stamped sheet metal base. This thin base can distort and ruin a hole saw long before the teeth ever wear out or break off. I prefer to use hole saws that have a thick steel base plate. This more rigid design seems to be less prone to binding, and when the cutter does bind up, it’s less likely to destroy the hole saw.
A good quality cutting lubricant can also help to reduce heat in the cutter and extend blade life. WD40 and similar products are probably not the best choice for this, as they are primarily solvents, and you’ll have to use some type of weld-safe cleaner to remove the residue left behind. I prefer water based cutting lube that can be simply wiped off with a rag when finished.
While the number of notches per hole saw can vary based on a lot of factors, with a little practice you should expect to get 50+ notches in mild steel and somewhere around 20-30 in chromoly. Once you’re in-tune with your notcher, the drill, hole saws, and the proper notching procedure, you won’t cringe when it comes time to take on that next tubing project.
-Written by Christian Huffman – Inside Technical Sales
Bending Square Tubing can be a real pain, especially if it’s your first time. You find yourself climbing all over your bender trying to free the tube from the die, hitting it with your arsenal of mallets, and once you finally get the tube free, the inside and outside walls are deformed and the bend quality doesn’t meet your original expectation. But hold on.. How abnormal is deformation when bending square material?
Before you get bent out of shape with square tubing, watch our “Intro to Square Tube Bending” video below. In this video, we walk you through and demonstrate what you can expect when working with square tubing. Wall deformation, bend angle, radius, and bending equipment are a few of the topics covered.
Are they synonyms or just similar? How about this one:truck…or pickup? Many would use these terms interchangeably, but growing up in the transportation world I recognize “truck” as an 18 wheeler capable of some serious work – 400 HP, 13 speeds towing 50,000 lbs! A pickup was great for grabbing lunch or loading up coolers and pulling a boat to the lake. Same goes for Belt Sander vs Belt Grinder →
A belt sander is useful when working with wood. The slower belt speed keeps heat from burning or glazing over the grain. Sanding is done by pressing the material against the belt which rides along a rigid backing platen. You feel the seam of the belt thump its way around and the drag of the belt robbing power. Typically much less pressure is presented to the belt with wood and therefore the belt tracking system is not as robust….a “pickup” if you will. You will find these from household name brands at at big box stores. But, if you want to get some serious “truck-like” work done on metal [mantra-pullquote align=”left|center|right” textalign=”left|center|right” width=”33%”][/mantra-pullquote] a high speed belt grinder is the tool for you. Belt speeds are typically 4,000-8,000 feet per minute resulting in rapid material removal. Plus, they are designed to use either the rigid backing platen or a rubberized contact wheel grinding surface. The rubberized backing behind the belt gives you butter-smooth feel and even quicker material removal. Hardcore fabricators will recognize names like Burr King, Multitool, or Grit. This high speed belt action allows much of the heat to leave with the grinding chips and dust, plus keeps the belt cool as it spins through the air. As you can imagine a Belt Grinder needs some serious HP and robust tracking system to handle the high pressure often placed against it. And typically the belt construction will consist partially of a Zirconia or Ceramic material on a heavy backing that can handle the rigors of steel removal.
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Even some manufacturers will blur their product descriptions by using the terms sander or grinder too loosely. Just make sure you select the right machine with adequate power, speed, and of course long-lasting quality to get your job done right. There are a lot of options, feel free to contact us to discuss any of them!
Mandrel tube bending is a widely misunderstood bending term. Many customers and even some bending companies refer to the bending dies as mandrels or shoes. Technically the mandrel is a part of the tooling set but does not exist in most bending applications.
The mandrel actually goes inside the tube and is held by a mandrel rod to support the tube at the tangent point of the bend. The mandrel is then extracted after the bend is complete or within the last few degrees of bending. This requires a machine with a bed longer than the tube being bent and strong enough to support the forces against the mandrel.
Common mandrels configurations include the plug, ball, disc or multi-ball or disc design. The type of mandrel required varies depending on the wall thickness of the tube, radius required, and type of material being bent. Mandrel bending can create a bend much tighter than empty bending as well as improve the appearance of bend.
Mandrel tube bending diagram
Radii as tight as one times the diameter of the tube (1D) are possible, whereas with empty bending (bends without an internal mandrel) acceptable radii are usually two to three times the diameter (2-3D). This is especially useful for Continue reading →